Local reviewers seem to have conflicting reviews about the assorted “side” dishes at Go Shi Go (903 Ke‘eaumoku St.), but ask anyone about the cold udon here, and you’d best have something on hand to clean up after the Pavlovian drool.

Cold soba topped with tanuki chips, green onion and wakame, Go Shi Go.

“Cold udon?” you ask. “Really? Udon?!”

Yes, udon. Not soba. Udon. (Soba? Udon! Sorry . . . Little inside joke from the Tai-Sei days.) I had my doubts, too. Who eats udon cold? You will, after you try it at Go Shi Go.

The noodles, made at the restaurant every day by owner Hidetaka Ushiki, are cooked to what’s best known by Americans as al dente, which is definitely not a texture one typically associates with udon. The result is a chewy texture that, because it influences to how you consume each noodle, contributes to the taste of the noodle itself, leading you to appreciate the flavor of the local deap-sea water that’s been worked into the dough. So delicious.

But that’s not all.

EVERYTHING about the udon is fabulous. The tanuki chips are delicate, yet able to hold their own in the sea of noodles, broth and vegetables. The broth is savory without being salty and is served at just the right temperature to complement the noodles. And the green onions and wakame . . . yum.

I can’t wait to go back . . . so it’s a good thing a bunch of us are going from the office on Friday!